2009/10/22
24/04 - Farewell Cognac
I could still remember the pleasant smell of bread and cognac as we passed by the bakeries and wineries on our way to the train station before sunrise. A moment of sublime sensation.
A note on the regional trains in France: clean, efficient, comfortable.
23/04 - Cognac
You don't need to be an hardcore fans of Cognac XO or VSOP to visit the charming little town of Cognac. The main reason for us was the discounted accommodation we found online. By the time we reached Cognac, all the wineries were closed. To see all the famous cognac labels clustered in one place seems bizarre to us. We had a pleasant stroll in the town centre before dusk.
23/04 - Bordeaux
23/04 - Cathédrale Saint-André, Bordeaux
22/04 - Arcachon
22/04 - Gujan Mestras
22/04 - Farewell Sarlat
2009/10/21
20/04 - Sarlat Dinner
21/04 - Sarlat la Caneda
21/04 - Prehistorical Caves of Lascaux
One of our main reasons to visit the Dordogne Valley was the famous prehistoric cave paintings. After a few hours of bus, train and stopping at Le Buisson, we reached Les Eyzies-de-Tazac-Sireuil at lunchtime. We hiked our way to the Grotte de Font de Gaume without tickets (though we tried to book online two days ago) only to find out that the day's 200 tickets were long sold out a week ago. At the tourist office in Les Eyzies, we were suggested by the staffs to visit the cave at Lascaux, the most famous prehistoric cave in the area. The cave of Lascaux attracted my attention ever since I was a few years old. From a child book I acknowledged the cave is a human wonder in the world. It would be such a disappointment if we failed to visit a cave during our stay in the area. We decided to call a taxi to Montignac, the closest village from Laxcaux despite we weren't sure how we could return to Sarlat after the visit.
At the ticket office in Montignac, the guy queuing behind us, who could speak some English, offered to drive us up to the cave entrance since it could easily took us over an hour to hike up the hill. We followed him to his car and met his wife, who was about 8-month pregnant. They drove us to the cave and we visited the cave in the same tour group. We chatted a little while waiting for our visit time slot. The couple lived near Limoges and worked at a national park nearby.
At 16:30, we finally stepped into the cave of Lascaux II. After some brief accounts on the history and geography of the cave (in French), the guide led us into the main cave where large bulls and horses in rich colours dazzling on the cave ceiling. Under atmospheric dim light, the surreal prehistoric figures came to life. From photographs, I could never imagine how moving the experience could be on seeing the Lascaux paintings in person. Since its discovery in 1940s, the cave paintings at Lascaux had created a big impact in art, history and tourism. Moisture from human breathe of thousands of visitors led to serious deterioration of the paintings, and the authorities were forced to close the cave in 1963. Lascaux II, a replica of the famous original, took a group of artists 11 years to complete. http://www.culture.gouv.fr/culture/arcnat/lascaux/en/
After the visit, the couple were kind enough to drive us back to Montignac. Knowing that there wouldn't be any bus to Sarlat in the next two days, we could only choose between taxi (50+ euro) and hitchhike for our return trip. The couple took a piece of paper from their trunk and made us a sign "Sarlat". They dropped us off at the roadside where south-heading traffic exited the village. Every car passed by slowed down to read our sign, and it only took us 3 minutes to get onto a luxurious car of a businessman from Paris. We couldn't have better luck. The Paris businessman was constantly on the phone with his blue-tooth. After 1/2 hour winding through the French countryside, the car entered Sarlat at around 18:30. The businessman was super kind, dropping us off right at the townhall of Sarlat. The comfortable ride concluded my second ever hitchhiking experience.
21/04 - Pâtisserie shop in Le Buisson
We had two hours to spare at Le Buisson waiting for train connection. Near the station, we bought two cans of foie gras at a local butcher shop. Next to the butcher shop, we found a small pâtisserie shop and the pastries seemed very tempting. We couldn't resist. To us, these two pastries could well rival any dessert cake we have had at fancy restaurants and 5-star hotels.
We finished the pastries on a bench near the station. As we enjoyed our sweet, we were greeted with smiles and "bon appetit" by the locals.
2009/10/11
21/04 - Le Buisson
20/04 - Lyon to Sarlat
It was a long day of train rides. We took the risk of numerous train changing to speed to Sarlat-la-Caneda of Dordogne in one day. Our original plan involved 3 train changes. However, due to a train breakdown, we ended up changing trains 4 times, and spent more than 13 hours on the road before reaching Sarlat at 21:00. Our route was as follow: Lyon to Montpellier, Montpellier to Toulouse, Toulouse to Agen, Agen to Le Buisson, Le-Buisson to Sarlat.
19/04 - Traboules, Lyon
19/04 - Inflatable Mouse
18/04 - Lyon Architecture
Architecture wasn't the prime reason for us to stay in Lyon. We did, however, make a brief tour to see a few buildings in the city: Jean Nouvel's Opera House, Renzo Piano's Cite Internationale, and the area of La Confluence, the further site of a cluster of buildings which includes Coop Himmelblau's Musée des Confluences.
Thanksgiving 2009
2009/10/04
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